It’s no secret that Zagreb often gets overlooked in favour of cities along the Adriatic coastline. But with a history dating back almost 1,000 years, there’s a lot to uncover in the Croatian capital. Zagreb first developed into two settlements which eventually came together to become the heart of modern Croatia. Today, the city blends Austro-Hungarian architecture with a thriving cultural scene, locally-run cafes, and plenty of green space. Many visitors head straight to Zagreb Upper Town (the old town), but Zagreb Lower Town is equally worth spending time in and offers a completely different side to the capital.
The Lower Town, or Donji Grad, sits below the historic old town and is known for its impressive selection of museums, elegant boulevards, charming squares, and leafy green spaces. Unlike Zagreb Upper Town, it showcases the city’s 19th-century grandeur and is a great area to experience local life. Taking the time to go around Zagreb Lower Town is one of the best ways to experience Zagreb beyond the tourist highlights, and the food scene in this part of the city is unmatched.
What to do in Zagreb Lower Town
Ride the funicular to Zagreb Upper Tower
Riding the funicular in Zagreb is considered to be one of the most iconic activities in the city. It connects Tomiceva Street in the Lower Town with Strossmayer Promenade in the Upper Town, making it the quickest way to get between the two neighbourhoods. The Zagreb Funicular has been operating since 1890 and is considered one of the shortest funiculars in the world, travelling just 66 metres.
The journey takes less than a minute, but for only €0.66 per one-way ticket, it’s something everyone should try. You can, of course, easily walk between the Lower and Upper Town by using the nearby steps, but taking the funicular is a fun way to experience the history of Zagreb. If you’re planning a full day of sightseeing, you’ll be very thankful that the funicular exists, especially on hot days.
Dolac Market
Just around the corner from the funicular is Dolac Market, the most famous open-air market in Zagreb. The market has been running since the 1930s, and it’s often referred to as “the belly of Zagreb”. The red parasols covering the outdoor stalls are instantly recognizable, and local farms come from all over Croatia to sell their fresh produce here. It’s the perfect place to sample Croatian fruits, vegetables, cheese, and regional specialties at affordable prices.
Dolac Market is open from early morning until mid-afternoon. I’d recommend visiting in the morning, when everything is fresh, and the market is at its most vibrant, with bustling crowds. It’s also a good idea to bring cash, as I only saw a couple of stalls with card machines. The indoor section of the market may have more options to pay with a card, but this is where the fresh meats and fish are located, which you probably aren’t looking to buy.
Even if you don’t plan on purchasing anything, wandering through the market is a nice way to soak up the atmosphere before exploring more of Zagreb Lower Town.
Oktogon Passage
The Oktogon Passage is easily the most beautiful hidden gem in Zagreb. It’s hidden just off of Ilica Street, and most people walk straight by it. The passage was built in 1898, and it was originally part of the Former Croatian Savings Bank building. The stunning octagonal glass dome in the centre of it is where the name comes from, letting through plenty of natural light, which is perfect for photos. Today, you’ll find a few boutique shops inside the passage, making it feel more like a shopping arcade than a shortcut between two streets. It’s a great addition to any self-guided tour of Zagreb Lower Town.
Shop along Ilica Street
If you’re looking to do some shopping while in Zagreb, Ilica Street is where you should start. This is the longest and most famous shopping street in the city, offering people a good mixture of international fashion brands, bakeries, independent businesses, and bookstores. Even if shopping isn’t on your itinerary, it’s worth strolling down Ilica Street to admire the architecture, and you may come across some hidden courtyards and passageways, too. Even though Ilica Street is the main shopping street in Zagreb, it feels more local than many other shopping districts in European capitals.
Ban Jelačić Square
Ban Jelačić Square has served as the central hub of Zagreb since the 17th century. It’s named after the Croatian military leader and governor Josip Jelačić, whose equestrian statue you’ll find in the centre of the square. It’s surrounded by beautiful historic buildings, and serves as a meeting point for locals as well as a key stop for catching trams across the city. You’ll most likely pass through Ban Jelačić Square several times while exploring Zagreb Lower Town since attractions are located on all sides of it, including the funicular and Dolac Market.
Chocolate Museum Zagreb
One of my favourite things to do in Zagreb is to visit Chocolate Museum Zagreb. Unlike a traditional museum, this interactive experience will take you through the history of chocolate, from its origins to modern times, all while eating pieces of chocolate. When you purchase your ticket (€12.00 per adult), you’ll be given a small tasting box which contains a variety of chocolate pieces and a wooden spoon. As you make your way through each room, you’ll be instructed when to try the chocolates, creating a fun tasting journey that ends with unlimited chocolate fountains.
This may not be the cheapest thing to do in Zagreb, but it’s definitely worth it if you’re hoping to visit some unique museums in Zagreb during your trip. It’s open quite late, too, so you can always visit at the end of the day if you’re not sure you can squeeze it in any earlier.
Croatian National Theatre
The Croatian National Theatre is a beautiful building to photograph, with a yellow façade and Neo-Baroque architecture. Its doors opened at the end of the 19th century, when it was officially inaugurated by Emperor Franz Joseph I in 1895. It remains an important cultural institution today, and performances here often include ballet, opera, and drama productions. Even if you’re not interested in buying tickets for a performance, the building is worth seeing as you make your way around Zagreb Lower Town. You can always purchase a ticket for an evening performance if your itinerary allows.
Archeological Museum in Zagreb
Did you know Zagreb has the most museums per capita in the world? It’s often referred to as the “City of Museums” by visitors and locals, and many of these museums are located in Zagreb Lower Town.
The Archaeological Museum in Zagreb is where you’ll find more than 450,000 objects, including Egyptian mummies, Roman sculptures, and one of the most important Etruscan texts in Europe – the Liber Linteus. Any history lover could spend hours inside this museum, and at only €8.00 per adult, it’s not a very expensive attraction in Zagreb to visit. When we arrived, one of the floors was closed for renovations, but we still got to see the famous Zagreb Mummy in person.
The Archaeological Museum is centrally located, so you can easily visit other cultural attractions without needing to walk far. The National Museum of Modern Art, for example, is less than a 5-minute walk away, and other smaller galleries are dotted throughout Zagreb Lower Town as well. And if you’re very interested in archaeology, you can always join an Archaeological Zagreb Walk as well.
Admire Zagreb’s unique street art
Zagreb’s street art scene is very underrated. It offers a unique contrast to the historic architecture of the city, and some pieces even celebrate the culture and history of Zagreb.
While you’re walking around Zagreb Lower Town, be on the lookout for colourful murals and creative public art. One of my favourite examples can be found on the road right in front of the Nikola Tesla statue. You never know where street art will pop up, and it’s a great way to appreciate the city’s creative side while still exploring the main attractions scattered throughout the Croatian capital.
Museum of Hangovers
With so many quirky museums in Zagreb, it can be hard choosing which ones to prioritize. The Museum of Hangovers is by far one of the most unique options, taking a fun approach to the feeling of being hungover. The museum explores hangover culture around the world through funny stories, interactive exhibits, and donated objects. For just €10.00, you can enjoy games and activities designed to recreate questionable decisions and the confusion that comes from drinking.
This museum may not be for everyone, but it offers something a little different than the usual attractions in Zagreb. It’s also not far from the iconic Zagreb Cathedral, either.
Grab a drink at a rooftop bar
There’s no better way to relax after a full day of exploring Zagreb Lower Town than with a drink overlooking the city. There are a lot of rooftop bars in Zagreb which are particularly popular at sunset with the lighting. If you’re looking for a rooftop bar close to both the Upper and Lower Town, OUT Rooftop is a good option. It’s located above a hotel and nightclub, and although it’s a covered bar area, the roof does retract when the weather is nice. There are plenty of non-alcoholic options on the menu as well, so there’s something for everyone to enjoy.
Places to eat in Zagreb Lower Town
Cynic
It would be hard to find a better brunch spot in Zagreb than Cynic. Located just a short walk from the main shopping streets, Cynic has quickly become popular for its beautifully presented brunch dishes inspired by international flavours. On the menu you’ll find things like fluffy pancakes, scrambled eggs, acai bowls, and Turkish Eggs served with fresh bread. Their specialty coffee is also a must-try, as it comes from a local roastery, Lively Roasters Coffee Co., but you can also order other drinks such as matcha.
You can’t go wrong by dining at Cynic, whether you order one of their egg dishes or a sweeter option. If you plan to visit on the weekend, I’d recommend arriving early as the tables fill up quickly. We went for brunch on a Saturday, and there was a DJ setup inside so the atmosphere was incredible.
Figa Garden by Henrik
One of the city’s best-kept secrets is Figa Garden by Henrik. It’s tucked away in a peaceful courtyard, so guests can enjoy sitting outside in a tranquil space, away from the traffic noise. The menu strongly focuses on fresh, seasonal ingredients, making it the ideal breakfast spot in Zagreb. We ordered a selection of items, including a freshly made quiche, a salmon breakfast sandwich, and a slice of cake. I would highly recommend ordering an iced matcha latte here – it was one of the better-tasting matcha lattes I had during our trip.
Figa Garden by Henrik is open throughout the day, so you can enjoy breakfast, brunch, or drinks at the bar – whatever you prefer!
Gallo
For a unique fine-dining experience in Zagreb, Gallo is definitely worth considering. This Michelin Guide restaurant is located near the Croatian National Theatre, and it’s earned an excellent reputation over the years for its sophisticated Italian and Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. Anyone who loves fish will be well taken care of here, with seafood dishes always being a major highlight of the menu. There are also lots of options apart from seafood. I had a delicious risotto to start, followed by fresh truffle pasta.
All the food we ordered was presented beautifully and tasted incredible. While Gallo may be at the higher end of the dining price range, it’s worth splurging on during a trip to Zagreb. Make sure you order a dessert, too, such as the tiramisu.
QUAHWA Coffee Shop & Roastery
Zagreb Lower Town is filled with cafes, but not all of them serve good coffee. QUAHWA Coffee Shop & Roastery is the place to go if you’re a fan of specialty coffee. All of their beans are roasted on-site, and you can even buy bags of coffee beans to take home with you. They source their beans from around the world so you have a lot of options available, depending on how you like your coffee.
On top of specialty coffee, QUAHWA has a nice selection of freshly baked pastries and light savoury snacks, such as grilled cheese, to pair with your drink. The banana bread was a big highlight for me, and it went well with my iced matcha latte. QUAHWA is a great cafe in Zagreb Lower Town if you need a break from walking.
Theatrium by Filho
Theatrium by Filho offers a unique, modern take on European dining, with dishes inspired by premium local ingredients and Mediterranean flavours. This is another restaurant in Zagreb featured in the Michelin Guide, so you can expect an elegant and well-executed dining experience from the moment you walk through the doors. It’s especially popular in the evening due to its proximity to the theatre.
The menu at Theatrium by Filho has something for everyone, from fresh seafood to Croatian classics and vegetarian dishes. I ordered the schnitzel for my main dish, which was paired with a bowl of potato salad, and finished things off with a chocolate soup and strawberries. We had a lovely waitress who was able to help us pair the right wines with our food choices. Don’t be afraid to ask for help, because their wine list is extensive.
Where to stay in Zagreb Lower Town
We only spent three nights in Zagreb, so it was important for us to be centrally located. Bumblebee Luxury Apartments are located almost next door to the Chocolate Museum Zagreb, and they’re both stylish and affordable compared to many hotels in Zagreb. There are a few self-catering apartments to choose from, and on your day of arrival you’ll be sent a message to tell you how to enter the building. The apartments are spacious and very modern, with kitchen facilities that are ideal if you want to make some of your own meals or have a drink in the morning.
If hotels are more your style, there are lots to choose from. Hotel Central is located next to the main train station and is a budget-friendly choice, and Hotel Jägerhorn is another good option within walking distance of the historic centre. Or, for something a bit more modern, Hotel Academia has comfortable rooms without a big price tag. Whatever accommodation option you prefer, staying in Zagreb Lower Town makes it easier to explore both parts of the city centre.
Is Zagreb worth visiting?
Zagreb may not have Croatia’s famous beaches, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t worth visiting. The capital offers visitors a completely different experience from the coastline, with plenty of fascinating museums, historic architecture, and a thriving food scene to discover. I would say that Zagreb is one of Europe’s most underrated city breaks. Since Croatia now uses the Euro, visiting the country has become even more convenient as you don’t need to worry about currency exchange. Whether you’re stopping in Zagreb before heading to the coast or planning a relaxing weekend here, Zagreb Lower Town will pleasantly surprise you.
If you have any questions about planning a trip to Zagreb Lower Town, what to do in Zagreb, or where to eat, please get in touch. You can reach out through the contact form or via email. Remember to follow my travels on Instagram and TikTok, too, where you’ll find more useful information about Zagreb as well as ideas about where to travel to next.
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