Depending which way you start driving along the Ruta de la Pasa, Totalan will either be the first or the last white village in the Axarquia region of Malaga that you’ll come across. This inconspicuous village sits nestled in the hills, surrounded by vineyards, raisin drying areas, and almond groves. Its deep rooted history and long standing traditions mean that there are quite a few unique things to see in Totalan, regardless of what time of the year you plan to visit.
Totalan became an important stronghold for the Arabs, who used it to help keep an eye on the sea in the distance. Just outside of the village you can find an 11th century tower known as Torre de Salazar which would have been used as a watchtower to prevent enemy invasions. I struggled to find the road leading up to it using Google Maps, but it’s one of the most important things to see in Totalan according to their tourism website.
There’s also a 4th century BC dolmen in the area (Dolmen del Cerro de la Corona) which you can hike up to if you have the time. Here are my top picks for the best things to see in Totalan.
Things to see in Totalan
Statue of a chameleon
One of the first things you’ll come across as you enter Totalan is this Chameleon statue situated in the middle of a roundabout. While the statue doesn’t have any historical relevance, it’s one of the most unique things to see in Totalan. It was donated by an American couple who have a holiday home in the village after the townspeople couldn’t decide on what to put in the centre of the roundabout. Just next to this statue is a very large free parking lot which I would recommend using as there are minimal spots available further down the road.
Views of Totalan
Along the walking path from the parking lot is a gorgeous view of Totalan in the distance. This isn’t an official viewpoint, but it gives you a bit of a closer look of the village before actually getting to it. Many of the white villages in Andalusia are situated on a hill similar to this one – so be prepared with some good walking shoes.
Plaza de Antonio Molina
Plaza de Antonio Molina is a very special spot within Totalan, as it’s named after a famous singer and actor who, despite being born in Malaga, learned to sing in this village where his parents were born. There’s a statue of Antonio Molina at the entrance to the plaza, as well as a garden full of native plants next to it. This is a beautiful part of Totalan to see before you make it into the very centre of the village and is one of its main attractions.
The streets of Totalan
There are more things to see in Totalan than there are in some of the other white villages in the area, but there still aren’t that many. That being said, the streets in Totalan are quite picturesque, even on a gloomy day, so it would be well worth it to take a casual stroll through them. The village also has an interesting museum that’s recreated a traditional 19th century rural house inside of it, which is called Museo Casa Papalos.
Torre del Violin & Mirador del Zagal
One of my favourite things to see in Totalan is the Torre del Violin. It’s a fairly recent construction, but it was built to commemorate the Arab’s victory over the Christians during a battle that took place here in the 15th century. The attack began with the sound of a violin which is why you’ll find a violin on the top of this commemorative tower. Mirador del Zagal is also at this location, which offers you a great view of the countryside surrounding Totalan. This spot is definitely a must-see in Totalan.
Plaza de la Constitucion
Although the village isn’t very large, it does boast a second plaza, this one being more central. Plaza de la Constitucion is a small square where the village sometimes hosts events and festivities, and is home to the village’s church. You can also find a beautiful ceramic water fountain at the far end, where you can grab some fresh water if you need it. You’ll often find a lot of these smaller plazas if you’re driving in southern Spain and visiting the various hillside white villages, and they can be quite charming.
Iglesia de Santa Ana
Tucked away in the corner of Plaza de la Constitucion is the most important building in the village – Iglesia de Santa Ana. This church was built in 1505 and was remodelled in the 17th century. It’s one of the main things to see in Totalan. Just next to the church is an Arab arch which blends in with the whitewashed houses of the village. The arch is similar to the one found in Cutar, which is another white village along the Ruta de la Pasa.
Mirador del Algarrobo
On your way out of this pretty white village in Malaga, make sure you stop at Mirador del Algarrobo for one last look at Totalan. If you parked next to the roundabout with the chameleon on it, you can walk along a path that will bring you to this viewpoint. I wouldn’t recommend driving to it because the only place to park is along the road and there isn’t too much room to do that. If the weather in Totalan is nice when you visit, the view will be even better.
Totalan isn’t your average popular tourist destination, but it’s certainly one of the hidden gems in Malaga that’s worth stopping at. As you make your way to Totalan, you’ll drive through many vineyards spread out across the rolling hills that produce the muscatel raisins that the village is well known for. There are enough things to see in Totalan to keep you busy for a couple of hours, and hopefully you’ll have enough time to continue along the Ruta de la Pasa and visit other nearby villages such as Comares and Cutar!
Chances are you haven’t made it to Totalan yet, unless you’re like me and have been touring around the Province of Malaga. If you have been here however, I would love to hear about your experiences in the comment section below. And please feel free to follow me on Instagram to keep up to date with my latest adventures.
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may earn a commission from the discount codes used or when a link/ad is clicked. All purchases made will come at no extra cost to you, and I only include products and services that I would personally recommend.
Pin this blog post for later!
